A Wolf at Your Door?

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silhouette dog on landscape against romantic sky at sunset

There are a number of ideas about dogs that have originated in their genetic connection to wolves and our understanding of wolf packs.  Most of these ideas are wrong.

We’ve made great strides in the past two decades in our studies of our closest animal friends.  Only relatively recently has research been done exploring the way our dogs think.  The way we look at wolves has also evolved since some of these theories about dog behavior came about.  Science has shown us an entirely new understanding of dog behavior, yet society still operates under the myths that science has overcome.

the study of wolves has come a long way.  There was a time when, in order to look at a species, we took all our data from observing captive species in zoos and the like.  The creation of technologies such as wildlife cameras and GPS trackers have revolutionized our ability to study these creatures.  What we have found is that animals behave very differently when placed in captivity.  There are a few reasons for this:

  • When wolves were captured and confined the entire pack was not taken.  Generally lone wolves or wolves that had strayed from the pack were captured.  So the groups that ended up in enclosures were unrelated and had no existing social hierarchies to fall back on.  We were no seeing the behavior of wolf packs.  We were seeing the behavior of unrelated groups of wolves thrown together.  They didn’t know each other or how to react to one another because their social group was gone.

nature animal playing wilderness

  • In the wild, the best bet for survival is escape.  It doesn’t make sense from an evolutionary perspective to fight.  One might be injured or killed.  There are no veterinarians to patch up wounds, and infections can be deadly.  In order to survive it is best to avoid any interaction that might result in an injury.  When there is a fence there is no escape.  One must find alternative ways of coping with potentially deadly interactions.  While these will be based in existing patterns of behavior, they take on entirely new meaning in an artificial situation.  Behaviors that were once reserved to be used to show affiliation between group members morphed into what were interpreted as submissive behaviors used by one wolf to convince another not to attack.

Wolf packs are now known to be family groups that rarely have any sort of aggression between family members.  The “alpha” pair is the breeding pair, and the rest of the pack is almost always made up of their offspring.  So called submissive behaviors are performed to greet each other and show affiliation and are not about submission to any sort of social dominance.

How long young wolves stay with their parents varies depending on environmental factors.  Pack size is directly linked to what sort of food source is around.  The larger the prey animal the more wolves need to be involved in killing and eating the prey.  In this situation it is advantageous for offspring to stay on until they are mature enough to safely survive on their own, and sometimes even longer.  With smaller, less dangerous prey, the pack needs fewer wolves to be successful.  Offspring are more likely to venture out and find a mate and begin their own pack.

So what does this have to do with our four legged friends?  Not much.  The wolves we have long studied are the American timber wolves.  Dogs do not share DNA with these wolves, but rather share a common ancestor with European gray wolves.  In addition, dogs are separated from wolves by thousands of years of evolution.  There is no evidence that the common ancestor they share bears any resemblance to the modern day wolf.  According to renowned veterinary behaviorist Ian Dunbar, “Learning from wolves to interact with pet dogs makes about as much sense as, ‘I want to improve my parenting – let’s see how the chimps do it!'”

Not a wolf….

Ru089     Not a wolf…Auburn

 

 

 

 

Still not a wolf…

Bear.jpg

 

Seriously.  Not a wolf.
Sunshine

wolves

Okay… that last one is a wolf.

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Just a Spoonful of Cat Food

Some of you have met my little Killian in past blog entries or on his Facebook page. One thing I don’t talk a lot about with Killian is how incredibly difficult he can be to medicate.  Now, I am not new to medicating dogs. I have even been hired by clients to come over and give medication to difficult dogs.  But Killian is a master at avoiding his pills.

Killian in his wheels

When I first got Killian I actually took him to the vet every day so they could give him his meds.  Killian is not just paraplegic. He also suffers from epilepsy and chronic hepatitis. He takes a lot of medication to keep him going.

Killian is a small dog, so one would expect that, at the very least, I could force the pills down him. And I have. But Killian has learned how to cheek them or keep them just in the top of his throat where I cannot see them.  As soon as I turn my back on him, ptooey! And he has some range – on occasion over six feet. The pill ends up across the room, and I am on my knees trying to locate it. Because not only are his pills varied for each condition, some of them are also extremely expensive.

So I feel your pain if you have a dog that is difficult to pill. Here are the options I have used over the years.  Not all work with all dogs, but I find that usually one of them does work.

  1. Wrapping the pill in something yummy is usually sufficient for most dogs. American cheese works well if you don’t want to purchase pill pockets. Or a small piece of bread can work in a pinch.
  2. Peanut butter is an experience all its’ own when pilling dogs.  Some dogs it works well.  They cannot help but smack their lips and lick and swallow the delicious gooey mess.
  3. Force is my least favorite way to pill a dog, but in life or death situations it may be necessary. I always feel terrible opening a dogs mouth by force.  But if you need to do it, the easiest way is to place your hand over your dog’s muzzle with the thumb on one side and your index finger on the other.  Find the gap in the teeth (about half way back) and press in. You will find you can gently pull the mouth open. Place the pill as far back in the mouth as you can and close the dog’s mouth, holding the head in a normal position (parallel to the ground). Sometimes rubbing the throat will help the dog swallow. Gently hold the muzzle closed long enough that the dog swallows the pill.

Yeah, I know.  If you are reading this you have probably tried all of this.  I certainly tried and failed with all of these methods with Killian. A few tweaks can turn these failures into success. Here are the tweaks!

  1. Try the “Meatball Game”:  Get three pieces of whatever you are wrapping your dog’s pill in.  Roll two into balls, and put the pill in the third one.  One at a time, toss each “meatball” to your dog. Save the pill for last. Usually by the time your dog gets to the third one he’s gobbling them up.
  2. Use something that is doughy to wrap the pills. Lunch meat may be delicious to your dog,    but it doesn’t always stay on the pill well. Use something that will squish around the pill and completely encase it. You might even look online for recipes for homemade pill pockets.
  3. Use a chaser: Get something your dog can’t resist eating and feed it to her immediately after putting the pill in her mouth. I’ve used broth in a syringe, but it doesn’t necessarily have to be a liquid as long as it goes down easily.
  4. These methods have worked for me in every case that didn’t involve disease induced anorexia. If the dog isn’t eating you’re going to have to resort to putting the pill in your dogs throat. If this is the case, look for a piller for your dog. This is a syringe type tool that will get the pill to the back of the throat without risking that your dog will bite down on your hand in an attempt to keep you from forcing the pill down. It also keeps your hand drool free.

Hopefully this gives you some new tools to help get medicine down your dog.  Making this as easy as possible for your dog will make it easier for you, and will make it easier to pill her in the future.

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A great read about remote collars

http://www.companionanimalpsychology.com/2013/06/the-end-for-shock-collars.html?platform=hootsuite&m=1

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Can You Reinforce a Dog’s Emotional State?

Emotions are not behavior. Comforting a child who has just had a nightmare doesn’t increase the likelihood of nightmares. Comforting your dog doesn’t increase emotional distress. It decreases it!

Wilde About Dogs

woman with dog

I recently received an email asking whether I had any books that addressed how to help a dog who was grieving. Since I don’t, I searched online to find an article that might be of help. What I found surprised me. Although there was solid advice, one of the recommendations in almost every article was to be careful so as not to inadvertently “reward the behavior” by giving the dog attention. Really? Hmm.Let’s see. As it happens, my best girlfriend’s mother just passed away. I will be spending the day with her today. I expect she will be sad, and that we will discuss things, and that I will comfort her, because that is what friends do. Now, of course dogs are not people and we can’t comfort them with words, but the emotions of loss and grief are the same, to whatever extent and however they are experienced by…

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We Are Our Choices

Wilde About Dogs

iStock Lab with woman.On the road today, I noticed a bumper sticker on the car in front of me. It said, “Trump. Clinton. We are our choices.” This struck me, not only because it wasn’t the typical declaration for one candidate or the other, but because of the meaning. Whichever candidate we support, we generally support their policies and what they stand for. But beyond that, our choice of candidate says something about us as well. We identify more with that person’s personality and characteristics—they are more like us. Okay, not in every way, and don’t worry, this is not to be a discussion of politics. But what that bumper sticker did make me think about is dog training.

What does “We are our choices” have to do with training and behavior? A lot. Just as in politics, it’s well known that there are two major schools of thought. The more traditional school…

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Just a Spoonful of Cat Food?

Some of you have met my little Killian in past blog entries or on his Facebook page. One thing I don’t talk a lot about with Killian is how incredibly difficult he can be to medicate.  Now, I am not new to medicating dogs. I have even been hired by clients to come over and give medication to difficult dogs.  But Killian is a master at avoiding his pills.

Killian in his wheels

When I first got Killian I actually took him to the vet every day so they could give him his meds.  Killian is not just paraplegic. He also suffers from epilepsy and chronic hepatitis. He takes a lot of medication to keep him going.

Killian is a small dog, so one would expect that, at the very least, I could force the pills down him. And I have. But Killian has learned how to cheek them or keep them just in the top of his throat where I cannot see them.  As soon as I turn my back on him, ptooey! And he has some range – on occasion over six feet. The pill ends up across the room, and I am on my knees trying to locate it. Because not only are his pills varied for each condition, some of them are also extremely expensive.

So I feel your pain if you have a dog that is difficult to pill. Here are the options I have used over the years.  Not all work with all dogs, but I find that usually one of them does work.

  1. Wrapping the pill in something yummy is usually sufficient for most dogs. American cheese works well if you don’t want to purchase pill pockets. Or a small piece of bread can work in a pinch.
  2. Peanut butter is an experience all its’ own when pilling dogs.  Some dogs it works well.  They cannot help but smack their lips and lick and swallow the delicious gooey mess.
  3. Force is my least favorite way to pill a dog, but in life or death situations it may be necessary. I always feel terrible opening a dogs mouth by force.  But if you need to do it, the easiest way is to place your hand over your dog’s muzzle with the thumb on one side and your index finger on the other.  Find the gap in the teeth (about half way back) and press in. You will find you can gently pull the mouth open. Place the pill as far back in the mouth as you can (using a pill syringe can make this easier) and close the dog’s mouth, holding the head in a normal position (parallel to the ground). Sometimes rubbing the throat will help the dog swallow. Gently hold the muzzle closed long enough that the dog swallows the pill.
  4. Depending on the pill you may be able to crush it (or open a capsule) into something tasty.  Always ask your vet before you do this as some medicines are made to dissolve slowly, and this will release all the medication at once.  Your vet may also know just how strong the flavor is on the pills. Killian’s vet and I have worked to find pills that I can do this with. I use a little yogurt or kefir.

Yeah, I know.  If you are reading this you have probably tried all of this.  I certainly tried and failed with all of these methods with Killian. A few tweaks can turn these failures into success. Here are the tweaks!

  1. When wrapping the pills in choice one above, also make several small balls of cheese or whatever you are using that are identical to the one that houses the pill.  Throw these on the floor one at a time and let your dog gobble them up.  Usually by the second or third your dog is no longer taking the time to taste or chew. At this point, throw the “meatball” with the pill in it. Chances are your dog will gobble it up! I have yet to encounter a dog that cannot be fooled this way.
  2. If you have a bunch of pills to give and the meatball method is too much “junk food”  consider adding a “chaser” once you have the pill in your dog’s mouth. I have used either moist treats or a syringe with chicken broth in it.  Pill goes in, and is immediately followed by the chaser.  The dog is forced to swallow the pill so he doesn’t have to spit out the chaser.

Chances are one of the above methods will work at getting your dog’s pill down him.  You might also consult your vet to see if there is a palatable liquid version of the medication.  We have done this with Killian’s epilepsy medicine, and it has been much easier on both of us.

Do you have any creative ways you have found to get pills down your dog?  Please post them in the comments below!

 

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Pet Professional Guild Launches Worldwide Advocacy Program — The Pet Professional Guild

Project Trade encourages pet owners to exchange aversive training devices for discounted force-free training services provided by PPG members Tampa, FL – The Pet Professional Guild (PPG) has launched Project Trade, an international advocacy program that encourages pet owners to … Continue reading →

via Pet Professional Guild Launches Worldwide Advocacy Program — The Pet Professional Guild

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